Muirt, from Ireland, writes about his trip to Molyvos during his first Easter in Greece.

The Road to Molyvos: My First Greek Easter

East of the Greek mainland, almost into Turkey, lies the island of Lesvos, or Mytilini (a habit the Greeks have of calling their islands after the main town).

Famous in drinking lore for its conniseur quality ouzo it is also mentioned in classical Greek legend and more recently has retained a mecca-like status for the lesbian community with the south-west of the island in particular attracting the congregation year after year.

Alcohol and amour aside there is plenty of other distractions as an Irishman from Dublin pointed out. The island also attracts a variety of wildlife to leave ornothologists enthralled.

Well it was to Mytilini I did go one Easter more because of a tight budget than any real desire. Living in Athens I had done the nearby islands and was looking for a far flung adventure but couldn't afford the price of a ticket to Crete. Then the thought occurred to me that if I could reach Istanbul via the Aegean Sea friends there would surely help me out til back to Athens I did go.

Landing in Mytilini it soon became clear that any hope of getting to Turkey was out with boats not leaving for another few days, the same amount of time I had projected for an end to my cash. So sitting drinking frappe with a Dub, talking birds and buses a plan began to take shape. We both agreed to spend the night in the town before moving onto our desired destinations the following day. A nice town with plenty to choose from it washed over me like a dream, much like the first night in any new place. A bit of wine and a sample of local brew soon had bed and dreams of promise in abundance

The next day after a trademark walk alone in the early morning town I gathered my bags and along with my new found friend was off across the island, west at first before finally we parted and I turning north, he (his name is in another notebook) continuing west to the bird-spotting region, found myself on the road to Molyvos and countless possibilties.

Coming in on the coastal road with the sea off left, a town began to climb up before me, the sun glittering on the sandy stony ground, the air still and warm. Perched on a mound above the town, a castle (or fortress) offers as lookout post and tourist attraction. A fortification of some purpose, I still found it more impressive from a distance.

What intrigued me about Molyvos were its narrow steep streets, its main cobbled shop street with overhanging flowers and all the scent of summer to come, ending on the far side of the town at the port, a place where even the thrifty traveller should let go and sample some of the culinary delights on offer. Nothing more delightful than watching the fish you ordered being bought off the last boat in, fresh and almost wriggling to the plate. Of course that could have been my imagination fuelled as it was by some fine red wine, a good bottle, and not the gut-rot retsina they typically serve up as the house special. In all reality, I guess the fish I was served could have been dragged from the deep freeze (doubt it!)…ah but with a breeze off the sea, the seaweed smell of a busy port, the warmth of a Greek April, chatter, hustle and bustle, food, drink, women, families, men, dogs…well…ahhhh!